Standout Sunday roasts
Published 31 October 2025

Describing their venue as a neighbourhood restaurant inside a 19th-century pub, the good folk at The Camberwell Arms have an appealing proposition on a busy road that slices through SE5. 'Compelling, simple, seasonal' food is the real deal, served up in relaxed, pared-back spaces where the bones of the old pub remain in its stripped floors, fireplaces and high Victorian ceilings. There's a hatch window out front so drinks can pass to thirsty locals on the pavement, and a private dining room with its own bar at the other end of the spectrum. The gauntlet is thrown down with 'Scotch bonnet pork fat on toast' – a dish of fire and fat, and not for the faint-hearted. Share a few small plates such as semolina gnocchi in a 'bright, fresh' San Marzano tomato sauce or charred onions with artichoke pesto and pistachios; otherwise, stick to the trad two- or three-course format. A bigger helping of grilled fish (wild bream or plaice, maybe) arrives with chips and aïoli, while thinly sliced porchetta is dressed with white peaches and rosemary. Two like-minded people can go for sharers such as half a spit-roast chicken (with blistered hispi cabbage and crème fraîche enriched with chicken fat) or aged Hereford rump steak with anchovy dripping. To finish, a 'beautiful' apricot and chocolate galette with crème fraîche and sour-cherry molasses sent one reader away very happy. Sunday lunches catch the eye with more of those sharers as well as roast potatoes cooked with sage and lemon. The drinking options include cocktails and well-chosen wines (from £26.50).

‘We moved out of London to the Hertfordshire countryside with one very important requirement: we needed a brilliant local pub. And somehow, we struck gold with the Fox & Hounds,’ notes one reporter. Revamped back in 2018, this hostelry has everything you might expect – weathered beams, brick fireplaces, a bar serving excellent ales – but much of its success is down to the ‘wonderful staff’, brilliant family atmosphere and ‘the genuine sense of belonging’. That said, the pub’s trump card is its ‘absolutely superb, restaurant-standard food’. Expect a well-thought-out, fairly priced menu that’s equally appealing for slap-up celebrations, midweek drop-ins or sociable Sunday lunches. There’s also an understated commitment to seasonality that might yield anything from rabbit and ham hock pie with chive mush and mustard sauce to wild sea bass with bean stew, chorizo, brown shrimps and lovage. Burgers, steaks, battered fish and salads cater for more traditional appetites, while desserts have all-round appeal – ‘Ronnie’s apple pie’ is a best seller. The pub has an inviting catch-all wine list, and Friday’s ‘happy hour’ brings the whole village together.

‘A family feel, everyone welcome, great food and great beer line-up,’ the stone-built, 15th-century Kew Inn aims to satisfy all the requirements of a village hostelry in the 21st century. Inside there’s a traditional bar with St Austell ales and others on tap, plus four dining areas, all imbued with an air of country-inn conviviality. Outside is a stunning garden area dotted with mature trees in the shadow of the village church. The kitchen offers a broad choice across the board, whether you’re in the market for a ploughman’s, curried crab rarebit, moules marinière or something more adventurous – perhaps crispy buttermilk monkfish with katsu sauce or the ‘superb’ smoked short rib with champ mash and piri-piri hispi cabbage. To finish, the lemon meringue posset or the s’more toasted marshmallow with chocolate sauce and cherry syrup might tempt – otherwise plump for a plate of West Country cheeses with poached pear and candied walnuts. Sunday roasts come with their time-honoured seasonal accompaniments. In addition to Cornish ales and ciders, the drinks list also takes in some well-chosen mainstream wines.

Overlooking the Gothic remains of medieval Byland Abbey, this dream-ticket pub ‘hits that sweet spot between effortless village local and divine destination dining’. Inside, it’s pure, cosy magic, complete with flickering fires, ancient stonework and genuine Yorkshire hospitality. Pull up a stool for a pint of hand-pumped ale or graduate to one of the three dining rooms for seriously appealing food with a punchy regional accent, underpinned by produce from owner Tommy Banks’ family farm. Classics such as beer-battered haddock or Saddleback pork pie sit alongside upmarket ideas ranging from confit chicken and nasturtium velouté to BBQ fallow deer haunch and braised shoulder with sour cherries. And you can now enjoy the pub’s ‘absolutely incredible’ smash burgers indoors during the colder months. For afters, it’s hard to see past the luscious soft-serve ice creams – ‘nostalgic bliss in a bowl’. Brilliant Sunday roasts are a winning ticket too, with everything from Yorkshire hogget to rare-breed Berkshire pork reared at the Banks’ family farm. Aside from real ales and botanical cocktails, there’s a decent selection of wines with plenty by the glass.

Standing at a country crossroads on the edge of the Fonthill Estate, this handsome, ivy-clad 18th-century inn is a hugely enjoyable retreat and very much an all-rounder. ’Picture prefect’ from the outside, it really scores with its gorgeous interiors and succeeds in delivering ‘an exceptional country pub experience’ every time. Excellence combined with warmth is what makes it such a special place. Gentrified country-luxe decor defines the interior, and there’s a covered terrace opening onto an acre of mature gardens. The main menu is a carefully considered crowd-pleaser, although one reporter is drawn to the ‘tempting bar snacks chalked above the fire’. Whether you’re after a ploughman’s, a ‘Beckford burger’ or something more upmarket, the kitchen is always rigorous when it comes to sourcing local and regional produce. Fish and West Country meats share the billing, so expect anything from cured Cornish gurnard with black-garlic mayo and pickled celery to roast Prescombe partridge or West End Farm pork chop partnered by spiced sausage, squash and damsons. A well-spread global wine list suits most palates and pockets.

‘A proper countryside pub with real character, combining the history and warmth of a traditional drovers’ inn with seriously good, ingredient-led food,' commented one visitor. Set beneath the Black Mountains, ‘it has everything you want from a rural escape,’ thanks to sympathetic renovation by local regenerative food and farming company Wild by Nature. There’s a timeless charm about the place with its thick stone walls, wonky-beamed ceilings, slate floors and a large open fireplace. A deep respect for ingredients defines the seasonally changing menu; dining here is farm-to-table and nose-to-tail, involving ingredients grown or reared at the owners’ nearby farm. Almost everything is made in-house, from the pickles and ferments to pig’s cheek croquettes with sauce gribiche and desserts such as fennel-seed rice pudding accompanied by stewed plums and gingerbread. Dry-aged, home-reared Hereford steaks are a standout, likewise the braised LLeyn hogget shoulder with Pardina lentils. It’s easy to see the allure of the place, especially when you factor in Herefordshire beers and ciders, low-intervention wines, ‘wild cabins’ in the grounds and even a wood-fired sauna.

‘Our local’ noted one reader proudly. For anyone with misgivings about pubs with restaurant inclinations, this urban hostelry should set you straight. As befits a sibling of Southwark’s Anchor & Hope, Stoke Newington’s Clarence Tavern, and the Magdalen Arms in Oxford, the Canton Arms is fully committed to its role as an old-fashioned city boozer. Low-lit and friendly, there’s pretty much a 50/50 split between drinkers knocking back pints of real ale in the front bar and diners in for some consistently delicious food in the dining area at the back.

Ingredients are seasonally spot-on, with the daily changing menu delivering anything from labneh with walnut and pomegranate dressing or crispy blood cake with homemade quince jam to roast hake with crab bisque, steamed potatoes and gremolata or duck confit with Puy lentils. After that, there might be bread-and-butter pudding with praline sauce, which was recently reported as ‘something I dream of weekly’.

It’s all considered good value, and that includes the line-up of drinks, which range from an ‘amazing’ selection of real ales on rotation and an impressive list of classic cocktails to a perfectly judged European wine list.

At the hub of a Sussex hilltop village, with a sunny terrace overlooking the local church, this reimagined 16th-century inn has all the nooks, crannies, inglenooks, oak beams and floral displays that you could wish for. Efficient, cheery staff keep things rolling along, bringing ‘pint milk bottles’ of water to each table as a matter of course. The place gets packed and everyone is here for the food – thanks to a confident kitchen that can deliver consistent crowd-pleasing dishes from a regular menu and a chalked-up specials board that included a tempting with a crab-topped crumpet with cucumber and almond cream.

Burgers, pies and battered fish keep the traditionalists happy, but there's room for invention too: a well-balanced goat’s cheese brûlée delivered on all fronts, with a fine lavosh cracker alongside, while cod fillet was perfectly pan-fried, with impressive accompaniments including a crayfish beurre noisette, silky-smooth celeriac purée, savoy cabbage and crispy Parmesan-crusted potatoes. Meaty choices range from Surrey ribeye steaks with peppercorn butter to haunch of local venison richly embellished with a braised shoulder tartlet, quince poached in mulled wine, potato terrine and a boozy sauce. And on Sundays, the prospect of three ultra-traditional roasts guarantees regular full houses.

The kitchen puts on a show when it comes to desserts: our deep-filled lemon tart had bags of citrus tang, with blackberry purée and blackberry sorbet on the side, while a dark chocolate terrine was lifted by a raspberry sorbet and maple-flavoured honeycomb. The well-considered wine collection offers oodles by the glass, including a range of Sussex sparklers.

Originally named because it was the last coaching inn before Cornwall, this extensively refurbished Devon hostelry has shaken off any geographical confusion and now plies its trade as a lively venue for all-comers at the heart of the old stannary town of Tavistock. ‘I will never tire of eating in their restaurant or just popping in for a relaxing drink,’ observed one regular. Whether you’re after a pint in the garden with a Scotch egg or a full three-course dinner ahead of an overnight stay, there’s ‘utter consistency’ across the board and the attention to detail is mightily impressive. Creative small plates such as beef-brisket croquettes with Asian pickles and firecracker mayo open the show, ahead of a broadly based selection of main courses mixing traditional pub fare with modern classics – everything from all-battered Cornish haddock to poached and roasted lamb belly with devilled kidneys, lamb-fat onion, spiced aubergine and lamb gravy. Fans dote on the Sunday lunch, while desserts might offer Yorkshire strawberry trifle with kalamansi sorbet. A drinker-friendly wine list is arranged by style.

‘So consistent, cosy and welcoming,’ commented one regular visitor to this fine old 16th-century inn a short detour from some of the National Park’s best trails. Since taking over in 2019, the Barker-Jones family have given the oak-beamed, slate-floored interior a satisfying makeover, with lots of attention to detail (note the lovely hand-painted photos on the walls). ‘You would feel welcome to just pop in for a drink,’ noted a reporter, but it would be a sin to miss the pub’s main attraction – its menu of carefully sourced local and seasonal food.

The kitchen delivers ‘deep full-on flavours’ across the board, from hunks of warm home-baked bread with Netherend butter and bowls of verdant pea soup topped with seasonal ramsons to panna cotta with rhubarb and shortbread or treacle tart given extra zing with confit orange, candied zest and crystallised ginger ice cream. In between, Jail Ale-battered haddock with triple-cooked chips is a winner, likewise the cider-braised West Country pork fillet and the stone bass and Teignmouth mussels with fennel, samphire and mussel velouté. It’s also worth working up an appetite for the effusively praised Sunday lunch with its offer of roast moorland sirloin and the like. 

Service from really professional, welcoming staff is all you could wish for, as is the wide-ranging drinks list, which covers everything from local Dartmoor Ale to classic cocktails and a small but varied list of mostly Old World wines.

Are Oisín Rogers, Charlie Carroll and chef Ashley Palmer-Watts champions of a new era in pubs? The Devonshire is certainly one of the most enjoyable places to eat in the capital (if you can get in) and looks set to become an institution. Ingredients are impeccable and the strong meat-focused menu delivers hugely appealing dishes in the lively environment of a central London watering hole. If you’re after value as well as quality, look for no further than the fixed-price lunch, which delivers prawn and langoustine cocktail, skirt steak with duck-fat chips and béarnaise sauce, plus luscious sticky toffee pudding – all for £29. Otherwise, flames are at the heart of things, with wood-fired Ibérico pork chops, lamb cutlets, steaks and lobsters keeping company with the likes of lamb hotpot or ‘a pile of langoustines’ on the hand-scrawled menu. On Sundays, roast ribs of beef carved from a silver-domed trolley have helped to restore the tradition in this part of town. Guinness is the tipple of choice in the permanently rammed bar, but you can also drink well from the mainly European wine list. The pub has a rooftop terrace for fine-weather dining, too.

‘Eat, Drink, Sleep’ is the mantra at this ever-popular pub with rooms from Charles and Edmund Inkin, who also run the Gurnard’s Head and the Old Coastguard in Cornwall. In many ways the Griffin is an archetypal dream of a country inn – all fireside sofas, knobbly brickwork, low beams and quarry-tiled floors, with craft ales at the bar and fresh, home-cooked food. But for all its heritage vibes, this is a slick, modern operation, with polished service and a kitchen headed by Tom Kerridge alumnus Gwenann Davies. Her repertoire includes traditional ideas such as crab risotto with crème fraîche alongside more contemporary dishes – perhaps brill with silverskin onion, pancetta, cavolo nero and bourguignon sauce. Each dish is carefully considered, right through to dessert – chocolate and coffee crémeux with Chantilly cream, for example. Sunday lunch is an ultra-traditional feast featuring beef and lamb from the lowland hills, greenery from the kitchen garden and plenty of homely touches. In addition to regional ales and Welsh spirits, drinkers can pick from a personally annotated wine list with plenty by the glass or carafe.

‘A really unique spot’ set within a 1,000-acre deer park just four miles from the Norfolk coast, this idiosyncratic pub/restaurant with rooms is quite a prospect. The grey-stone exterior may seem rather stark but inside there’s a feel of ‘inviting, lived-in elegance’, thanks to soft, warm furnishings, lots of varnished woodwork, leather, blazing fires and the owners' unrivalled collection of contemporary British art. Despite its impressive credentials, the place has never lost its pub atmosphere, with ‘locals enjoying a pint in the bar, a well-used pool table, darts, dogs and muddy-booted walkers’ adding to the country vibe. However, much attention focuses on the mighty Elk Room fire where joints of locally sourced venison, Blickling beef and South Creake pork are dramatically cooked over open flames. Also look for rich, carefully seasoned pies and fish from the coast (perhaps whole grilled mackerel with heritage tomatoes from the walled garden and herb aïoli). For afters, buttermilk pudding with raspberries is suitably comforting. Sunday means roast joints, while drinks range from Norfolk ales to a short, fairly priced wine list.

Some pub restaurants flatter to deceive, with fancy menus that don’t deliver. Others offer a short repertoire of dishes that transcend expectations. The Howard Arms is of this second happy breed – and some. A handsome and venerable Cotswold hostelry, it is well-used by locals who gather in the bar to sup pints of local ale. Up a few stairs is the restaurant, which provides decorum as well as conviviality (note the old pictures of country scenes, all fashionably decorated with allium seeds in November). 

Chef Chris Ellis (formerly at the Killingworth Castle) has produced a brief menu that has space for the classics (burgers, fish and chips) as well as more elaborate dishes. Choose the latter and you’re unlikely to be disappointed. For us, a thick chunk of pork belly set the tone: luscious fat, crisp skin and tender meat, accompanied by mouthwateringly tangy homemade brown sauce, plus crunchy rémoulade and a mound of flavoursome black pudding. To follow, a perfect, plate-filling lemon sole was cooked with split-second accuracy on the bone and matched with an abundance of potted shrimps, samphire and new potatoes in a pool of butter. Meat-based mains more than pass muster too, judging by an equally generous portion of juicy duck breast with Puy lentils and beetroot.

To round things off, an exemplary apple and blackberry crumble with custard was zesty, crunchy and creamy in all the right places. The concise wine list provides admirable back-up, service is informative and friendly, and prices are moderate for the Cotswolds. What’s more, Sunday lunch receives special acclaim for ‘melt in the mouth’ meat, a ‘great veggie option’ and (our favourite) ‘unlimited gravy’. How civilised.

Dating from the 16th century, the Merry Harriers is snuggled away in a rural Surrey enclave noted for its scenic woodland walks. Owners Alex Winch and chef Sam Fiddian-Green have given the place a gentle modern makeover (soft green colours, bentwood chairs, winter fires) and turned it into an ‘incredibly inviting’ destination for locals and visitors alike (keep an eye out for the weekly ‘meat raffle’). A menu that exhaustively lists all the kitchen's local suppliers inspires confidence, and the food is just what country-pub aficionados relish. To begin, a heritage tomato salad with goat’s curd might vie with sardines on toast, while mains could run from lamb’s liver with mash and shallots to halibut with brown shrimps, burnt butter and cucumber. Meat from the nearby family farm is a star turn, from braised short rib with polenta to sharing cuts of wagyu/Hereford cross. At the sweet end of things, there might be blackberry and tonka bean trifle or a ‘sandwich’ of Kentish cherries and chocolate ice cream. Tip-top draught beers and a carefully compiled wine list, too.

For decades, the Milbrook has defended its reputation as a reliable source of decent pub food in the South Hams but since Caitlin Owens took on ownership in 2021, it has found a new stride. Elegant restoration has amplified the cosy low-ceilinged hostelry into a sophisticated destination, whether you’re staying in the rooms across the road, or rocking up sandy-footed from the beach, ready for a pint of Salcombe Brewery Ocean Cider by the babbling brook at the back.

Beyond good looks, the menu is bolstered by its connection to Fowlescombe – a luxury rural retreat and working regenerative farm – and by Elly Wentworth, who works as executive chef across both sites, balancing prime ingredients with an approachable menu. Brixham crab and fresh corn chowder made for a swoon-worthy opener on our most recent visit, while a Toulouse sausage was packed with flavour and the triple-cooked chips were as good as you’d hope.

Sunday lunches and seasonal desserts such as Fowlescombe farm honey and fig trifle with roasted hazelnuts complete the package, while on dark nights the fireside beckons for a pre- or post-prandial trip through the adventurous wine list, which uses the Coravin system to offer maximum interest by the glass. Service can fluctuate with the seasons but it always supports a convivial hubbub of happy diners.

‘Cherished as a community asset… where local produce, local stories and local pride meet under one roof,’ this sympathetically renovated, family-run pub with rooms also receives high praise for its mix of contemporary and traditional styles. Delightfully wonky wooden beams divide the high-ceilinged, open-plan dining room, with large stone fireplaces at either end, plus tartan banquettes and polished wooden tables; there’s a ‘wonderful beer garden’ too. The kitchen makes almost everything in-house, from the piccalilli and potato bread that accompany the ham hock terrine to the milk ice cream that goes with the hot chocolate mousse. The self-titled ‘classic’ menu majors on pies with buttery mash, fish and chips, pastas, salads, burgers and steaks, with a few upbeat additions including Cornish mussels with ‘nduja and Piccadilly tomatoes. To finish, try the selection of three locally sourced cheeses with home-baked lavroche bread. ‘Impeccable Sunday roasts’ get the thumbs-up, as does the impressive drinks selection with its short list of easy-drinking wines, local ales and enticing cocktails – not to mention the ‘cheeky Gun Dog gin’.

The beloved Old Wharf Inn has been ‘a staple part of Stourbridge’ since reopening its doors in 2019 following an extensive renovation. The name and the location overlooking the Stourbridge Canal basin might summon up nostalgic echoes of heavily laden barges and the Industrial Revolution, but the wooden-floored interior now has a stylish contemporary look. The menu offers an appealing blend of modern pub food and Mediterranean-accented flavours, and the kitchen is renowned for its mighty portions. Punchy snacks such as spicy devilled eggs open proceedings, ahead of, say, monkfish and ‘nduja stew or Devon White chicken leg with parsley sauce, pickled girolles and charred Evesham corn. For afters, affogato and sticky date pudding await. ‘Breakfast is great, but Sunday lunch is fantastic,’ declares one local fan, no doubt musing on the Aubrey Allen striploin of beef. Given that Stourbridge wine merchants Nickolls & Perks are co-owners of the pub, it’s no surprise that the compact list has been carefully curated; otherwise, four rotating hand-pulled ales please the beer brigade. ‘Efficient, welcoming staff’ are regularly mentioned in dispatches.

‘Consistency’ is a watchword at the handsome Olive Branch: ‘We first visited this pub 22 years ago and, in that time, have only ever experienced fabulous food, amazing service and a warm welcome,’ noted one ardent fan. A ‘justifiably proud’ early adopter of local sourcing, it's now one of Rutland’s shining stars, renowned for its community spirit and forward-thinking approach to food and drink. The kitchen delivers the pub classics with aplomb (including ‘the best English seafood platter ever’) while also creating ‘some truly diverse offerings’ ranging from beef tartare with smoked egg-yolk ‘jam’, pickled shallots and Marmite butter to roast hispi cabbage with yeast butter, truffle, herb emulsion and pink fir potatoes. For afters, the Eccles cake with Colston Bassett Stilton and Earl Grey is a must-have, or you might try chocolate torte with marmalade ice cream. Sunday lunch is a bonanza headlined by roast 28-day beef sirloin with horseradish hollandaise and a harvest festival of veg from the pub’s growing patch. To drink, top-notch regional ales vie with an ever-changing list of good-value wines.

Tucked away in a remote valley in the southwest corner of the North York Moors National Park, Hawnby is an estate village of mellow sandstone, with a church, a pub and a village store. John Wesley visited here in 1757 calling it ‘one of the pleasantest parts of England’ – and we agree. Surrounded by forest and the heather-covered Hawnby Hill, it is a beautiful spot attracting walkers and shooting types who pay handsomely for a day on the estate’s grouse moor. The Owl (a former drover’s inn) sits at the top of the village and gives a commanding view over this stunning countryside.

Here Sam Varley, who previously ran Bantam in Helmsley, has created a welcoming retreat, a place to come for unfussy food and a comfortable bed for the night. Whether you eat in the stone-flagged bar in front of a warming stove, the dining room or the splendid terrace on sunny days, you'll find crowd-pleasing dishes such as chicken, leek and bacon pie or pork T-bone with roasted peach, green beans and pine-nut vinaigrette. Back in the day, cheap monkfish was often passed off as scampi; nowadays it’s a luxury fish and Varley’s monkfish scampi with curry mayo is fabulous.

Also expect devilled kidneys on toast, piles of hot, melting cheese gougères and cracking Sunday lunches – generously sliced aged sirloin of beef with horseradish cream, rolled shoulder of Yorkshire lamb or game birds in season (red-legged partridge or pot-roast grouse, perhaps). Puddings might be a refreshing grapefruit and Campari sorbet or a homely rhubarb sponge and custard. To drink, there are hand-pulled Yorkshire ales, while low-intervention wines figure prominently on a list that offers plenty by the glass.

‘We did a big walk around Kinder Reservoir, and to come here after for wine and some great food was bliss,’ noted one couple who sought refuge in the ever-welcoming Pack Horse (circa 1577). All-comers are greeted with a mix of friendly familiarity, genuine warmth and professionalism: ‘you can turn up in your tiara or your muddy walking boots’. In return, you’ll be treated to superb hospitality and cracking food based on sustainable supplies from local sources: meat butchered just four miles away, for example, might appear in a pie of beef shin, Guinness and mushrooms. Snack on a ‘Manchester egg’ (aka a black pudding Scotch egg) before tackling a smoked haddock fishcake with warm mussel tartare or a bacon chop with pease pudding, spring greens and cider. Sunday roasts ‘for two’ receive high praise for beef wing rib on the bone or pork shoulder chop – and if you still have room, gorge on one of the creamy desserts (gooseberry and sherry trifle, perhaps). Quality growers abound on the inspiring wine list, and the pub champions local breweries too.

Locals and visitors heap high praise on this ‘stunning countryside pub’ on a rural stretch of road three miles from Rye. The location is glorious, a garden with ‘sheep baa-ing while you eat’ beckons in fine weather, and a ‘joyous, welcoming atmosphere’ prevails. Inside, scuffed floorboards, plain tables and wood-burners set the tone, while paintings by Sussex artist William Warden ‘bring a lovely local connection to the venue’. As for food, it's ‘modern, forward-thinking cooking’, with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients taking centre stage. The weekday lunch is ‘amazing value’, while the straightforward carte promises a mix of pub classics (chicken and ham hock pie) and more complex combinations such as nori-cured chalk stream trout with pickled kohlrabi and horseradish. Sunday roasts are singled out for special praise, and desserts could include blackberry meringue with mascarpone and puffed buckwheat. Welcoming staff ‘want you to feel comfortable’, and the good humour extends to small children and dogs. Harvey’s Sussex Best is on draught, and the compact wine list offers reasonably priced drinking across the board.

‘Great food, superb beer and good hospitality… in a charming street near the canal,’ is how one reporter summed up this sibling of the Tamil Prince in Barnsbury, which is run along similar lines to its predecessor. What was the old Charles Lamb pub on Elia Street has been spruced up with a first-floor dining room specialising in South Indian food and a ground-floor bar, complete with a cosy fireplace, candles and a sofa – ideal if you fancy a pint and a quick bite. Snacks such as the okra fries and lime-leaf roasted chicken with pineapple regularly get the thumbs-up but also consider the grills and regional curries – perhaps mango sambar or Chettinad lamb. The coconut pilau rice is ‘excellent’, as are the flaky roti breads. To finish, the preferred option is refreshing mango lassi. Also check out the Sunday menu, with its masala-roasted chickens and lamb shanks plus Indian veg. Draught beers from Cornwall’s Harbour Brewing Co feature at the bar, and there’s a short list of interesting wines with several by the glass or carafe.

There are newly tarted-up pubs and then there's the White Hart, which dates back to the 1400s and has been posh for centuries. ‘Baronial’ is always the first word that springs to mind when you enter the dramatic dining room with its soaring oak-beamed ceiling, flagstone floor, stone-mullioned windows and impressive inglenook fireplace. Such surroundings could easily feel starchy, but friendly, casually dressed staff, a separate and equally venerable bar (complete with real ales and local drinkers), and modern cooking courtesy of new head chef Peter Eaton (ex-The Woodspeen) leaven things admirably. The White Hart's kitchen garden and local farms supply many of the ingredients for seasonal menus that might start with a consummately rendered fig, coppa and goat's cheese salad, ahead of succulent sea bream matched with tomato and anchovy vinaigrette and saffron gnocchi. A serious wine list provides back-up, while a summer house and beer garden (including a summertime pizza kitchen) add to the allure. ‘Amazing seasonal food, creative dishes, first-class staff and a beautiful historic building’ sums it up perfectly.

Opened under new ownership at the end of 2023, this old red brick pub on a city-centre backstreet has a deceptively large and modern interior. For drinkers, there’s a bar and a cosy snug (along with high-quality real ales and cider on tap), while diners have various options: a section off the bar with round tables as well as seating for couples, a first-floor space (the Gallery) for private parties, and a bright ground-floor ‘Orangery’ overlooking the little urban garden.

Like the decor, the food is contemporary in style – a collection of small and large plates (available all-day on Fridays and Saturdays) served by enthusiastic young staff who also get an honourable mention from readers. There’s ambition here, both in the drinks selection (pairings from the well-thought-out wine list are offered with main courses) and the food, which incorporates fusion assemblies as well as pub food of the burger/meat-platter ilk.

Results can vary, with the stars at inspection being an expertly judged ‘small plate’ of three ox cheek tacos (tender meat and crunchy cucumber salsa, topped with a generous squiggle of spicy chermoula), and a moreish pudding of warm carrot and pecan cake with delectable ‘beurre noisette’ cream cheese and ice cream. Less accomplished was a ‘large plate’ of smoked tofu laksa (one of several diverting vegetarian options), where authentic Asian flavours were hard to discern among the general creaminess. A convivial hubbub and a groovy soundtrack of obscure 60s and 70s tunes (chosen by the staff) add to the vibe, and we've had abundant praise for the Sunday roasts.