The Cornish Arms

Originally named because it was the last coaching inn before Cornwall, this extensively refurbished Devon hostelry has shaken off any geographical confusion and now plies its trade as a lively venue for all-comers at the heart of the old stannary town of Tavistock. ‘I will never tire of eating in their restaurant or just popping in for a relaxing drink,’ observed one regular. Whether you’re after a pint in the garden with a Scotch egg or a full three-course dinner ahead of an overnight stay, there’s ‘utter consistency’ across the board and the attention to detail is mightily impressive. Creative small plates such as beef-brisket croquettes with Asian pickles and firecracker mayo open the show, ahead of a broadly based selection of main courses mixing traditional pub fare with modern classics – everything from all-battered Cornish haddock to poached and roasted lamb belly with devilled kidneys, lamb-fat onion, spiced aubergine and lamb gravy. Fans dote on the Sunday lunch, while desserts might offer Yorkshire strawberry trifle with kalamansi sorbet. A drinker-friendly wine list is arranged by style.