The Felin Fach Griffin

‘Eat, Drink, Sleep’ is the mantra at this ever-popular pub with rooms from Charles and Edmund Inkin, who also run the Gurnard’s Head and the Old Coastguard in Cornwall. In many ways the Griffin is an archetypal dream of a country inn – all fireside sofas, knobbly brickwork, low beams and quarry-tiled floors, with craft ales at the bar and fresh, home-cooked food. But for all its heritage vibes, this is a slick, modern operation, with polished service and a kitchen headed by Tom Kerridge alumnus Gwenann Davies. Her repertoire includes traditional ideas such as crab risotto with crème fraîche alongside more contemporary dishes – perhaps brill with silverskin onion, pancetta, cavolo nero and bourguignon sauce. Each dish is carefully considered, right through to dessert – chocolate and coffee crémeux with Chantilly cream, for example. Sunday lunch is an ultra-traditional feast featuring beef and lamb from the lowland hills, greenery from the kitchen garden and plenty of homely touches. In addition to regional ales and Welsh spirits, drinkers can pick from a personally annotated wine list with plenty by the glass or carafe.