The Best Sunday Roasts In The East of England
Published 19 November 2024

Bright, modern, confident and ‘very buzzy’, Socius has the air of an urban restaurant – despite a location in one of Norfolk’s most attractive (and gentrified) little towns. It’s part of a new development on the outskirts of Burnham Market and benefits from the extra space this entails. A large open kitchen stretches almost the length of the ground floor, giving ample opportunity to see the well-run culinary operation; there’s less bustle in the mezzanine, where white walls sport splashes of copper paint and Velux windows allow natural light to flood the stylish, minimalist interior. Young, on-the-ball staff and a soundtrack of upbeat yet unobtrusive pop complete the cheery vibe.

The weekday menu majors in contemporary sharing plates. Try the beetroot chunks with creamed goat's cheese – tangy beetroot purée, whisps of fennel and a scattering of pumpkin seeds adding extra punch. Better still at inspection was the tuna tartare, its soft flesh boosted by pickled ginger and a poppadom-like ‘wonton’. Both these dishes also feature as starters on a Sunday lunch menu where succulent pink slices of beef are ably supported by an excellent cast of side dishes (faultless roast potatoes, shredded cabbage, cauliflower cheese, carrots, creamed parsnips) and first-rate gravy.

Grilled pollock with asparagus showed split-second accuracy in the cooking, and puddings, too, maintained the standard: an intensely flavoured Socius chocolate bar (resembling an elongated truffle) with salted caramel and ice cream, plus a perfectly wrought crème brûlée scattered with desiccated coconut and counterbalanced by flavour-packed fresh raspberries. Throw in a pleasingly varied wine list and Socius deserves its place in the top division of Norfolk dining.

Rattlesden is a ‘whole package’ Suffolk village. It’s got pastel-painted thatched cottages, a magnificent church, a little river running through it and, above all, this gem of a pub. Given half a chance (and a summer weekend) you’ll find head chef Matt Avery tending Big Green Egg barbecues in the Brewers' lovely garden, turning a deft hand to Texan smokehouse flavours and the likes of pork ribs, beef short rib, loaded fries and avocado tacos. He’s a chef who likes to take his time, whether barbecuing and ember-cooking, or teasing flavour from ingredients by aging and brining meats, or reducing wine- and port-rich sauces to their essence.

Order a glass of Chalklands fizz from Kentish winemakers, Simpsons, and settle in for snacks that could include ham hock terrine with a crisp little quail’s egg or scampi, but not as you know them – these are crisp, airy puffs containing monkfish and are delicious when swooped through a warm, lightly curried sauce. Follow with a fresh beef tartare – made using the trim from the Sunday roast and topped with the classic orb of egg yolk flecked with sea salt – or prettily plated mackerel pâté with a little pile of sourdough croûtons and pickled cucumber.

Lamb rump gets a patient 48-hour brine before arriving at table, roasted – the preceding hours’ care no doubt playing a part in its tenderness and seasoning. It comes sauceless with a little chard and crisp, butter-laden panisse – these moreish chickpea-flour chips slide onto a plate of beef fillet and short rib on the evening menu too. Date pudding with salted caramel and freshening vanilla ice cream delivers every ‘sticky toffee pud’ vibe, while a chocolate crémeux, sharpened with blackberry, ticks a box silkily.

Monday evening brings a fire pit ‘MeatUp’ between the pub and chef Matt Avery's ‘Smokefire’ brand, while Sunday sees a choice of well-balanced, contemporary roasts ‘with the focus on taste’ (think pork belly with ham hock and apple). The midweek set lunch (with choices) is also a steal. A standard wine list does its job admirably.

‘A really unique spot’ set within a 1,000-acre deer park just four miles from the Norfolk coast, this idiosyncratic pub/restaurant with rooms is quite a prospect. The grey-stone exterior may seem rather stark but inside there’s a feel of ‘inviting, lived-in elegance’, thanks to soft, warm furnishings, lots of varnished woodwork, leather, blazing fires and the owners' unrivalled collection of contemporary British art. Despite its impressive credentials, the place has never lost its pub atmosphere, with ‘locals enjoying a pint in the bar, a well-used pool table, darts, dogs and muddy-booted walkers’ adding to the country vibe. However, much attention focuses on the mighty Elk Room fire where joints of locally sourced venison, Blickling beef and South Creake pork are dramatically cooked over open flames. Also look for rich, carefully seasoned pies and fish from the coast (perhaps whole grilled mackerel with heritage tomatoes from the walled garden and herb aïoli). For afters, buttermilk pudding with raspberries is suitably comforting. Sunday means roast joints, while drinks range from Norfolk ales to a short, fairly priced wine list.

The lively, joyful noise emanating from the crowd in the Sun’s compact bar suggests that this recently rescued country pub is held in high regard by the locals. They’ve much to be thankful for. Not only is the little place a thatched beauty, with real ales and a wood-burning stove among its attractions, but there’s a street-food van outside (‘the Hatch’) and a restaurant at the back dedicated to food from Britain’s countryside – some of it produced on the owners’ nearby farm. Two four-course tasting menus are offered, plus a much-lauded Sunday lunch – a ‘field to fork’ feast with ‘fabulous flavours and textures’ in abundance.

Ensconced in the low-lit dining room (net curtains, part-panelled walls), we embarked on the ‘Farmer’s Table’ menu, a sequence of dishes geared to big, outdoor appetites. Thick slices of first-rate bread from a local bakery set the scene, served with ample house-churned butter liberally scattered with ‘chicken salt’. To follow, the salinity of a succulent piece of hake (cured at a local smokery) was tempered by a zesty pool of verjus and melted butter sauce.

A substantial vegetarian course involved two hefty lumps of accurately cooked beetroot in a plentiful, creamy ajo blanco sauce, while tender pig’s cheeks (from Suffolk) arrived with crisp potato rösti, kale and a deeply savoury gravy laced with local cider, plus a slice of excellent lardo from the owners’ farm. Every dish was well-executed and appealing, although the cumulative effect was somewhat rich and salty. 

To finish, we opted for a mousse-like chocolate ‘custard’ scattered with (more) salt and drizzled with olive oil. Quenching relief comes from a drinks list full of intriguing temptations (from local liqueurs to an organic ‘orange’ wine and a fine choice of fizz), while ample tap water is freely supplied by the welcoming, well-trained staff.

A roadside pub where superlative cooking, sharp service and stylish plates of food meet a dose of easy irreverence. The name’s a giveaway, as is the art that fills the walls, starting with a bronze pig’s derrière behind the bar, a new piece that’s part of a smart post-lockdown refurbishment. Have fun here, and eat seriously well too.

Come for the velvetiest of veloutés, perhaps leek and potato with the salty pep of smoked haddock and a garlicky crostino, or the pub’s ever-popular white onion soup accompanied by a savoury bonbon (perhaps ham hock or blue cheese). Snack on crisp arancini filled with gentle Taleggio and ‘nduja that’s fiery with Calabrian chillies. Pasta is made with silky finesse and, this being a broadly ‘Britalian’ kitchen, it’s given good billing: strands of tonnarelli might come with crab and freshening chilli, lime and spring onion; a raviolo could be packed with rabbit and a flavour-balancing gremolata; tubular paccheri could be served with a rich venison ragù.

Steak and chips – this is a pub after all – often gets the Italian treatment, so well-rested sirloin might be ‘tagliata’, served sliced across the grain. The accompanying Parmesan chips are criminally pinchable, the bone-marrow sauce deeply savoury. To finish, vanilla panna cotta fits the Italian bill, but go British with a rhubarb crumble, or choose a magnificent chocolate délice with a sweetness-tempering espresso sorbet. Sunday roasts are delivered with a touch of elegance and sophistication as well as a keen eye for provenance, while Europe leads the way when it comes to the notable wine list. Tapping into the expertise of the well-led front-of-house team yields delicious rewards, with monthly changing 125ml pours, in particular, enabling exploration.