The White Hart Inn

One couple who dropped in for morning coffee and pastries at this strikingly renovated hostelry opposite West Mersea’s church enjoyed the cosy, hospitable vibe so much that they returned for lunch – and weren’t disappointed. Seaside colour schemes, an open-plan layout and a trump-card terrace catch the eye, as does the kindly priced menu of uncomplicated modern dishes with pubby undertones. Rare-breed burgers, a gussied-up ploughman’s and, of course, Mersea oysters (from the waters of the nearby Blackwater Estuary) represent the traditional side of things; a rarebit of mussels with dill velouté and piccalilli or guinea fowl breast with black garlic, Tuscan-style butter beans, leg sausage and pumpkin offer something more creative. Dry-aged, grass-fed steaks are always in demand, while seasonal desserts might bring apple Bakewell tart or a chocolate délice orange with liqueur cream and orange compôte. Like other venues in Piers Baker’s group (the Sun Inn at Dedham and the Street Tavern in Colchester), this place is noted for its line-up of East Anglian ales, friendly staff, appetising cocktails and, above all, its well-assembled eclectic wine list.