The River Café

Only a handful of London restaurants can genuinely claim to be ‘iconic’, and this glamorous spot on a Hammersmith backstreet is one of them. Launched by Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray in 1987, the River Café’s mission was to bring the seasonal pleasures of artisan Italian cuisine to the capital. Almost 40 years on it’s still a cool prospect, frequented by a well-heeled crowd who love to eat (and be seen) here. The dining space is filled with luminous colours, while an outdoor terrace with riverside views is the perfect summery spot. As for the food, everything depends on impeccable supplies from Italy and nearer home, all attuned to the calendar. The culinary approach may be understated but ingredients are treated with the utmost respect – from a plate of fabulously sweet, wood-roasted Scottish langoustines with garlic and parsley to a magical dish of cannellini beans, summer girolles and parsley with a slice of crostino that could have come straight from a Tuscan farmhouse. For dessert, the much-copied chocolate nemesis still reigns supreme. Service is charming to a fault, although all that fame and legacy can cost a small fortune – especially if you delve into the mighty Italian wine list.