The Parakeet

Reinvented, resurrected and reconstituted, but ‘deeply rooted in its neighbourhood’, this landmark hostelry is ‘everything great local pub should be’. The front bar keeps things affable for drinkers, while those after a bite to eat head to the dining area at the back. Impressive stained-glass windows, a scrawled blackboard menu and an open-to-view kitchen set an informal tone that suits the feel-good contemporary menu. Dishes cooked over fire are the highlights of Ben Allen’s bold, produce-led repertoire, creating an impression of sophistication and flair (ancho chicken with sweetcorn velouté) while remaining down-to-earth and wholesome (jerk pork chop). Elsewhere, one reporter raved about the wood-fired leeks – ‘a masterclass in how a humble ingredient treated with extraordinary skill can become one of the most memorable dishes you’ll eat anywhere in London.’ Combos such as Flourish tomatoes with redcurrants and horseradish are typical of the seasonally aware approach, while all-day Sunday roasts promise the likes of hay-smoked chicken and beef fore-rib (to share). There’s good drinking too, from cocktails and draught beer to a confident, modern wine list.