The Latimer

Is there anything the Spiteris cannot do? Two generations of the family that has become hospitality royalty have now relaunched the Latimer, a Victorian pub on the fringes of Notting Hill. You could say it was near Portobello Market, but it's just far enough away to feel like a real neighbourhood oasis. With a small terrace out front, and a straightforward ambience of simple wood benches and bare boards inside, it gets a little more upscale in the dining area. Here, white tablecloths contrast with dark grey leather banquettes, with daily specials chalked on the board. The food is robust pub cooking, with an emphasis on substance: an average of four things at each course, plus side options of pickles and pink firs. Do not miss the chips, whatever you do. They'll sort out either an onglet or a hunk of hake. After that, desserts can be as light as a quivering buttermilk panna cotta. With good bottled beers, cocktails and wines by the glass, the whole package is what we sign up for in a good pub.