The Keelson

It may not have received the flashiest of makeovers, but the group behind Edinburgh venues Nauticus and Dogstar has injected some much-needed character into what was previously a forgettable space in Leith – formerly home to a string of failed hospitality concepts. With beer taps at the bar, darts and Sky Sports on the TV, there’s no mistaking this is a proper pub, though chef Pier Berretta makes great use of his talents in a menu built around tender and golden rotisserie chicken. Available as a half (for two) or whole (for four), the organic, herb-fed birds come with ratte potatoes (rich with char and fat from the bottom of the rotisserie) plus a sharply dressed green salad, a luxurious gravy and creamy, herbal ranch sauce. Starters and dishes from the grill veer between pubby (Scottish 'square' sausage, fried egg and fries) and polished bistro (heritage tomatoes with citrussy bagna cauda). Cocktails and draught beers are a better bet than the wine list, which we found lacking in sparkle. Expect friendly and competent service.