The Gurnard’s Head

Single-track lanes wind among gale-blown moorlands, high hedgerows and ancient monoliths to reach the Gurnard’s cheery mustard-yellow facade. Stepping inside, it immediately feels like a place of sanctuary, with locals sipping Cornish ales and ciders beside venerable hearths, and others gravitating to the candlelit dining room, where cartography and artworks often depict the raging seas outside. Unsurprisingly, seafood looms large on the menu, though inspiration comes from near and far – perhaps red gurnard ceviche swimming in ginger, chilli and soy or a warming Thai broth of mussels, chilli, coconut and coriander. The kitchen is also deft when it comes to working with produce from the fields (a main of pork belly with smoked morcilla, BBQ apple and mash, say), as well as fashioning sea-and-land medleys such as 'ndjua-flecked cod balanced atop a tower of mussels, with a tang of cider appropriate to this West Country location. Finish off with a pub classic such as sticky toffee pudding doused in butterscotch sauce. House wines kick off with a dozen 'open' whites and reds by the glass or carafe.