The French House

For generations of thespians, journos and assorted bohemians, ‘The French’ has been a talisman of old Soho – a pub with its own code (no mobile phones, no music, beer in half-pint glasses). Yet this brilliant boozing relic also sports a cosily traditional upstairs dining room with proper culinary aspirations. The kitchen has played host to a clutch of big-name chefs in the past, but current incumbent Neil Borthwick is now into his eighth year at the stoves. Stout-hearted provincial French cooking is his forte, although he allows British ingredients to do a merry jig with their Gallic counterparts. Visitors can expect a line-up of classics bursting with gutsy up-front flavours: chargrilled ox tongue with rémoulade sauce; calf’s brains doused with brown butter, capers and parsley; ink-braised cuttlefish with coco beans. Order steak and you will get a mighty rump or ribeye plus French fries, watercress, shallot salad and béarnaise sauce. For afters, indulge in the French-accented cheeseboard, a plate of madeleines or Paris Brest with hot chocolate sauce. Drink French cidre or pick from the pub’s all-Gallic wine list.