The Earle Arms

Many locals held their breath when they discovered the Earle Arms (one of Norfolk's undiscovered gems) had a new tenant and was being refurbished. Set in a lovely, out-of-the-way village where virtually everything is owned by the Bulwer-Lytton family (who have lived in Heydon Hall for well over two centuries), we are glad to report that the refurb has been sensitive: bar to the left, with an inglenook fireplace and stone flooring; restaurant to the right, with a wood-burning stove, stone flooring and part-panelled walls. The menu has been seriously updated, but prices are moderate and there’s plenty of talent in the kitchen – judging by a perfectly wobbly and creamy panna cotta with poached strawberries. Before this, the seasons and Mediterranean influences loom large, as in a healthy portion of mozzarella matched with sliced raw courgette and little cubes of cucumber, followed by lamb kofta couscous boosted by pomegranate, toasted almonds and pumpkin seeds. Cask ales come from the nearby All Day Brewing Company, and the short but interesting wine list covers most styles at moderate prices.