Queens Arms

Expect the unexpected. Rarely does this well-worn phrase ring truer than at this historic Victorian pub in an obscure part of Eccles. The small, red-brick tavern has a significant claim to fame in the annals of industrial heritage: built in 1828 and ranked as the oldest passenger railway boozer in the world, it has been sympathetically preserved in all its Grade II-listed glory. That might be reason enough to visit, but it doesn’t prepare the first-time visitor for the culture shock inside. Under Hong Kong ownership, and with an authentic Japanese izakaya-style menu, the result could be an aesthetic car crash – a cultural pile-up that does no favour to either tradition. Instead, the Queens Arms is as packed with Asian diners and Chinese tourists as any eatery in Manchester’s Chinatown – even on a dull Monday lunchtime. And the unlikely combination has been a great success, as much for the novelty as the excellent quality of the cooking and speedy service (as many repeat customers testify). The menu is short but expertly executed: best-selling dishes include pork cutlet katsu, a teriyaki ox-tongue rice bowl, eel rice bowl and teppanyaki mixed vegetable udon. The tempura batter on our visit was outstanding – meltingly light, fresh and crisp. Somehow, the whole thing fits together: etched ‘snug’ windows,  comfortable padded booth seating, tiled fireplaces, wooden bar fittings and Victorian knick-knacks. One room still functions as a local drinking den with a dartboard – so you can practice your throws with a glass of cold Sapporo on draught.