Nobles by Bellfield

With its stained-glass windows, a huge, dark-wood bar and soaring, frescoed ceilings that hark back to the area’s seafaring history, this Leith stalwart is easily one of the most beautiful pubs in Scotland. Under previous management, it had become a clapped-out shadow of its former self, but in 2025 the local Bellfield Brewery took over the lease and breathed new life into the place – particularly as regards the cooking. Chefs Hugh Brown and Finlay Colvin hail from notable Edinburgh restaurants and, in a menu of pub classics-meets-bistro cooking, there are influences from the Palmerston, Fin & Grape and Mirin. An opening bite of creamy tuna belly tartare on a beef-fat röosti might be followed by a tranche of hake in peppercorn sauce and crisp shoestring fries or a beautifully wrought bone-in pork schnitzel. As you’d expect, the pumps are dominated by Bellfield’s own brews, alongside a few guests and a small wine list. Though there’s no specific dining area, any of the dozen or so tables in the bar can be booked for food (place your orders at the bar).