Church House Inn

‘From the exceptional food to the divine range of beverages and the ever-loving chatter,' this ancient inn is a real star. Reached via a narrow passageway alongside St Andrew’s lichen-covered churchyard walls, the aptly named Church House has serviced the parish for more than seven centuries. The interior comprises an atmospheric wood-panelled room with fluted oak beams and a huge fireplace, all lit by flickering tapered candles – the perfect backdrop for a scrawled menu of born-again British dishes. Chef/landlord Tim Blanchard earned his stripes at nose-to-tail pioneer St John in London, but here he takes inspiration from South Devon’s fertile larder. The result is cooking that chimes with the setting without ever seeming archaic – welcome to the world of spring broth with bread dumplings, lamb faggots with mash and grilled John Dory with nettles and chips. Blanchard’s ‘house sausages’ are a fixture, while the smashed-patty cheeseburger with chips is a populist triumph. A pool table, quizzes, Sunday lunch 'feasts' and well-kept beers maintain the spirit of a proper watering hole. The wine list is notable for its friendly prices.